Textile School Review

Textile School Review - Welcome back to the gentleman's gazette! intoday's interview, i have andres weinas from manolo.se in sweden and he's going to sharehis approach to style and what he learned over the years. welcome, andreas! andreas weinas: thank you so much. a pleasureto be with you! sven raphael schneider: wonderful! andreas,you are how old? aw: thirty, this year actually, in september. srs: wonderful. i read about you that youwent to a textile college and that you got a degree in textile and business and you alsoused to be a professional handball player, is that right?
aw : yeah, that is quite the contrast to behonest but my life was pretty much professional handball for around 15 years and then slowlybut steady, my interest and my passion for menswear and clothing took more and more timeand handball is not paying like football or ice hockey in sweden even if you're playingat that professional level. srs: so it was difficult to make a livingat handball, basically. i think you discovered the world of men's style at a later age ornot later age, you were like early 20s, is that right? aw: exactly! i think the early 20s, as a lotof other guys, started off with trends and more fashion, i think i got a little bit ofbeing punk rocker one season and the preppy
guy the next. for me that was, i realizedthat i'm not extremely classic, but the more classic look tended to have a longer periodbefore it changes. srs: that's very true but you mentioned punkand preppy, was that really the way you dressed? aw: not really. sure, it could be like a bomberjacket one season that i thought was so nice and then i mean, to me the preppy trend wasextreme. i think it was 2007, 2008, something like that. i respect the trend because thehistory of the look, it has genuine parts but when everyone's wearing a bow tie androll up jeans then it kind of loses it's... srs: yeah, it lacks the individualism andeverybody wears one style, it's no style basically. you came from professional sports then youkind of developed this interest in style and
how did you end up in textile school then? aw: yeah, my options were either studyingbusiness and economics normally in gothenburg and then i found this in buros actually, outsidegothenburg where pretty much the textile mecca sweden was back in the 60s or 70s. i was perfectand of course, you're not learning about bespoke suits, you're learning about fabrics thatare more used in today's.. in h&m and zara... srs: it's a large scale production, right?when you start, you think "oh, there are all these nice suits and everything" but thenyou realize "oh, we're talking about the weaves of white cotton and how you can reduce theprice and still maintain the certain level of quality so it's less romantic than whatyou may think...
aw: yes, i learned a lot. srs: so, you mentioned manolo. tell us aboutmanolo. what is manolo? aw: well, manolo is in sweden. the largestmenswear site, stye guide focusing on quality craftsmanship and classic style with a moderntake, so to speak. srs: and it's written in swedish only, isthat right? aw: 100% swedish. srs: okay, so how many visitors do you attractper month? aw: we have around 25 to 30,000 a week anda little over 50,000 a month. srs: that's fantastic. especially consideringhow many people live in sweden?
aw: i think 9 million, perhaps. srs: so the market is rather limited comparedto english, it's much smaller. aw: i'm the executive editor so i am responsiblefor the budget, our freelance writers and for the actual, for the everyday count, prettymuch of the site. srs: wow, so did you start at that positionat manolo or how did you work your way there? aw: yeah, after i graduated from school, iwas contacted by the publisher called egmont which is i think, one of the top three publishersin sweden and they own king magazine in sweden and manolo which is the sister or brothersite to king with a more sartorial focus. manolo is only online but king magazine isa print. i was offered a full-time editorship
of manolo and also 20%, i divide my time 80%on manolo and 20% on king magazine. srs: okay, wonderful! you're already eludedto it but what would you say are the core values of manolo compared to king? aw: definitely a little bit more dressed upbut it's not 100% suit and tie. it's about quality over quantity, i would say. to goin-depth about construction and fabric and consistency and sustainability, that you couldbuy something actually for the years to come, for use over 10-15 years instead of 10-15months. srs: exactly, i think the impact you mentioned,sustainability, right? it's not very environmentally friendly to grow cotton even if it's organic.it just uses a lot of resources. the dyeing
is not really friendly. you can wear something15 years rather than15 months, you have gotten so much for value and you didn't waste allthat water and the dye, like 12 different pieces but just one. aw: i agree! srs: even though i don't speak swedish, isometimes go to manolo and just use the translate function to see what's going on and your mostpopular post, in my opinion, is probably the "friday inspiration"... aw: it's been a tradition at manolo for waybefore i started in 2013. my predecessor started it, i think in 2007 or something so everyfriday for i think it's 10 years. it's a cool
thing. srs: it's really great and probably i'm sureyour readers love it so i was wondering, so how do you determine what to feature everyfriday? how long does it take you? do you just create 10 outfits every like, 10 weeksor just do it on thursday night, how does that come together? aw: that depends. it could be both actually,during certain periods, you could get super inspired and do 2-3 of them on the same daypretty much but it could also be done very much in the last second if you're not inspiredfor the moment. yeah, i try to focus on everything from, it could be just something like a coloror a decade.
srs: so, now i'd like to talk a little bitmore about your style. i think you have a very interesting style and it's going throughyour instagram profile, i would sum it up as classic, re-interpreted. you take classiccolors, you take classic garments and you try to go with like a dark orange, burgundy,a bottle green but then in terms of cut, you like a very slim cut pair of trousers, nottoo long, no break necessarily and soft, softer garments. how would you describe your style? aw: i think you are pretty much spot on butthat is correct. i think a big problem when you have to choose between either being aconservative, classical menswear or you have to be a sprezzatura or a trend menswear. ithink you can be inspired from the benefits
of a cut of bespoke suits because that craftis pretty much perfected over centuries but i still think that you could combine thatwith personal and even modern influences. i think that's what personal style is allabout. influenced by modern trends, and you decide yourself which ones are relevant foryou, even with classic rules to dressing, i mean some of them really make a good pointand some of them are completely useless. srs: for example, give us some specifics. aw: well, i mean, wearing white after laborday. i think, that personally, the only reason why i would wear white is because it wouldbe a really rainy day outside or it doesn't matter if it's summer or winter. with a crisp,sunny, winter
day, i would love to wear white trousers,maybe not linen because it's too cold... srs: a nice pair of flannels, right? aw: exactly! brown shoes after 6, that's just,i mean obvious, i think. i love black shoes and i think there are some situations wherea black shoe is absolutely the best choice so i mean, know the rules but still questionthem and question the relevance for you, i think. srs: another thing about your style and ithink stands out, is your beard. for how many months have you been a beards man? aw: at least 10 years now, i think or more.since i was able to grow one. i don't know
why but at first, i think i looked too youngwithout them so i started to have it and then the big beard trend came to the world theneveryone was saying "oh, don't you know that trend is over?" and i was like, yeah, that'sgreat, now i can keep my beard. srs: like you said, you had it for 10 years,that was before the kind of hipster, urban, beards man trend came out. aw: it's been shorter, it's been longer, dependingon time and preference. for the wedding, i actually got a clean shave. srs: nice, that's interesting cos you havethe beard all the time and you just shave it off.. were you surprised when you shavedit off, how you look?
aw: yes, yes, absolutely! i was 8 years younger.(laughs) srs: and your wife didn't recognize you? hasshe seen you without a beard before? aw: yes. srs: alright, before you mentioned, you hadmore than 15 suits so i was wondering you know, looking at all of them, what are themost worn pieces in your wardrobe? aw: i would say, i have a blue attolini suitin a bird's eye weave. that is a made to measure, that is the pinnacle of my wardrobe, i loveit! srs: there can be like, gems in other placesbut you have to kind of, i guess you have to understand quality, right? what i, at thegentleman's gazette and fort belvedere, we
always try to say "hey, it's quality and style"and if you know those two things, you can see it even if there's no brand name on it.it's just that little craftsman somewhere but if you see it you're like, "oh wow, thisis good". aw: yeah, that's true! srs: so, how important is quality in yourlife? aw: quality, i think, it's the combinationof the garment.. they key is quality over quantity, every time but on the other hand,as i said before, the quality doesn't matter at all if the aesthetics are not there becausethen you won't use it and then the quality won't be appreciated.
srs: where would you say do you buy your clothes?you mentioned a few tailors but what about your shirts and your other things, what arebrands or things that you would like to mention here? aw: some people are very keen on having shirtsmade to measure or with the highest possible quality, shirts is actually one of the productsthat i would consider at a little lower price range because it's basically, you wear themfrequently next to your body, it has to be washed and i've had some problematic experiencewith really fine shirts that have shrunk to the extent that they are not, you know, they'retoo short to be worn with the jackets that you want to wear them with. sleeve lengthwas 2 cm off so, i mean, it's still a great
shirt but doesn't happen with jackets so i'drather spend a little bit more on the perfect fit for the jacket and perhaps, i'm not saying,i'm not buying, i would never buy shirts with a bad quality but if i had to prioritize,i would go for jackets and shoes as the premium. srs: so, what shoe brands do you go for? aw: well, the best ones, in my opinion, arest. crispin's. that's mainly because i have a formation problem with my feet, it's nota big problem but i fall in, so to speak, when i walk and they have, in my opinion,the best arch support for a non-bespoke shoe and they are really expensive but the style,the materials, the construction and arch support is, in my opinion, unrivaled for their pricerange.
srs: exactly. so, the other thing i wantedto mention about shirts was what i have noticed, sometimes, there's a trend now to hand sewnshirts, everything is hand made and while i can appreciate the craftsmanship qualityin a machine sometimes, when you wash it, the machine sewn seam is actually sturdierthan a hand sewn seam. the hand sewn may be nicer, more flexible on a jacket, that's reallygreat but on a shirt sometimes, i feel like the machine stitching can be superior to handstitching. aw: i agree with you. i think hand stitchingin many cases with shirts is more of a marketing gimmick. srs: i think i prefer the machine buttonholeon the shirt simply because it's going to
last longer. on a jacket, i always go forthe handmade buttonholes. aw: same here, i think the handmade detailson the jacket except for buttonholes but then it's really a good point of using hand laborbecause there are so many parts of making a jacket that really gets better made by hand.everything from pressing the jacket to shoulders and not to mention the canvas. i mean there'sa reason why bespoke tailors hand pat the canvas instead of a machine. srs: so, what are your style pet peeves? aw: i did like an article about this a coupleweeks back on manolo. my ten commandments, like how i think. it's not bad if people aredoing it wrong or if they break these, it's
just my personal opinion. srs: when they come meet you at the manoloevents, they should read this list beforehand. aw: exactly! (laughs) i never wear lightertie than the shirt, that is something i just don't, i really don't like that.i can't motivatewhy i think it's just that the tie really stick out in a bad way if it's lighter thanthe shirt collar.it can be lighter than the jacket but not lighter than the shirt. srs: okay, alright so that's one of them.what about the other nine? aw: i have to remember them but i think, itend to, i don't want too much contrast in my outfit unless i'm wearing a dark suit anda white tie is appropriate. if i wear odd
trousers, i like for example, to wear, ifi have a mid-grey trouser i like the jacket, no matter which color, it should not bee toodark or too light. it should be a complement, the same tone. srs: interesting! that's also a personal thing,if you're more of a high contrast or low contrast, low contrast will work better for you andif you are, like i have more, i can wear probably higher contrast better than you can but itseems like it's a personal thing. you don't go with the really charcoal and crisp whiteshirt, i rarely see you wearing that. aw: not that often and i still think thatif there's a dress code that says formal suit or something, then, of course, i mean, i alwaystry to wear at least one pattern in my outfit,
it doesn't have to be bold but it could be,if i have a pinstripe suit then i could have a plain shirt and a plain tie but not a plainsuit, plain tie and plain jacket because i like something to pop. srs: the difference between a vintage watchand a new watch and why do you prefer the vintage? aw: i like vintage watches because every singleone has developed their own character. especially from the 60s and 70, there's not one thatlooks like another. everyone has developed in different ways and i think that's superb.i think also, there's something about, you cannot just go out and buy it, i mean, witha new watch, does not really matter the price,
if you have the money, you pretty much getit. vintage watches, it's much more of a search to get that exact model or example and theright price and the right condition, so it's much more fun, i think. srs: it's more of a hunt, right? aw: yeah, exactly! and last but not leastis, i have quite tiny wrists so i really prefer the smaller sized watches. srs: that's a very good point. like the dialshave become so big and the older ones are smaller and just looks better on you. aw: that's i think the main reason. thereare fantastic watches made in the last century
that i think is very, still undervalued, imean there's a lot of vintage watches that are overvalued, in my opinion as well. i meanthe rolex daytona, they couldn't sell it for ten years... srs: we did an article about that and it'scrazy right? i mean a watch that sold for 90 and a thousand dollars and now is like250 thousand dollars, it's just like a good marketing. aw: yeah, very much, absolutely! it's up toyou if you like the watch, i'm not saying, it's been proven a great investment for thosewho bought... but i mean there's a lot of vintage watches that are very, very low pricedcompared to the quality.
srs: so specifically, what are those watches? aw: i would look for, like a universal. ithink there are still some nice omegas. even though vacheron constantin is an expensivewatchmaker, i think the smaller dress watches from the 60s, the 70s are extremely priceworthy. srs: perfect, thanks for sharing, i thinkthat's a good insight so usually we close our interview with quick questions, you canexplain or you can say something else but it's just to give a quick overview of whatyou prefer. okay, so oxford or derby? aw: oxfords. definitely. i mean, it's so elegant.i like derbies as well, definitely but i think it's the ultimate men's wear shoe.
srs: flannel or worsted? aw: flannel, definitely flannel. except forthe summer, flannel, i love the texture, it's perfect. srs: necktie or bow tie? aw: neckties for me, i think it's cool butbow ties, i'm not man enough for it, i'm sorry. srs: belt or suspenders? aw: depends on the occasion but i think, iwear belts a little bit more, suspenders are better in terms of function, you can sit andstand during meetings, when i get up, the place is exactly where it should be with suspenders.with belts, they tend to, you know, go down
and then it won't go up again. so, suspendersis a great fit, just not with every jacket. srs: barrel cuff or french cuff? aw: barrel cuff. i wear them much more, ithink it's very nice with a french cuff but i only wear those for formal suits. srs: undershirt or no undershirt? aw: no undershirt, never!! i never reallyunderstood that i mean, maybe if it's so hot outside that you need like an undershirt totake up the sweat but in my opinion, just close the jacket and pretend like nothinghappened. (laughs) srs: if you wear like a formal stuff likea white tie, or with a starched shirt front,
undershirt will be much better on your skinthan having that...that's my take on it, each to his own. aw: yeah.that's true! srs: off the rack or custom? aw: custom, always custom. mostly for thepossibility to do what you really want. i mean, not just the quality but the color,the cut, the length, the style, no compromise. srs: alright, so what can we expect from andreasweinas in 2016 and beyond? aw: to do my best of giving you guys somehopefully, entertaining articles and inspiration. srs: alright well thank you very much, andreas.it was a true pleasure, i enjoyed your different
take on things and thank you for your time! aw: thank you, bye!

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